Long-time readers are aware of my admiration for the husband and wife oenologist team of Dany and Michel Rolland. Michel is more visible in the international scene as he has performed magic at numerous estates in Italy, Spain, Argentina, California, and, of course, France. Rolland's success has not come without a price, as he now must endure an unprecedented level of criticism from a whining group of underachievers that appears to have one complaint - Rolland produces better wine than they do. A tell-tale Merlot/Pomerol nose of mocha, chocolate, tobacco, and sweet black-cherry/plummy fruit is followed by a medium-bodied wine with moderate tannin, excellent purity, outstanding richness, and a sweet finish. This wine requires 2-3 years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2000-2012.