Aromas of dark cherries, licorice, peonies and sweet spices, framed by a deft touch of classy new oak, introduce the 2020 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, a full-bodied, ample and satiny wine that's fleshy and gourmand, its sweet, powdery tannins entirely concealed in an enveloping core of vibrant fruit. Such is its underlying substance and incipient complexity, however, that I suspect its immediate charm is deceptive.