The 2007 Pinot Noir Evenstad Reserve has adequate brambly red fruit on the nose with touches of black truffle and pine coming through. The palate is classic and leafy in style, well balanced with fine acidity and a slightly austere but persistent finish. Reserved and understated and yet full of personality.

Crisp tannins surround a sweet core of berry, spice and coffee flavors that linger on the taut finish. Shows signs of opening up nicely. Best from 2012 through 2015. 9,874 cases made. -HS

5 8 A very elegant and refined Evenstad Reserve, with grace notes of sandalwood and a lovely cherry core. The fruit is immaculate, the concentration focused and lengthy, and the flavors are so artfully blended that the wine is seamless and perfectly balanced. Although it is drinking like a mature wine, there is every reason to cellar wines such as this—it can develop like a fine Burgundy, over decades. ——P.G.