The 2006 Riesling Smaragd Loibenberg displays remarkable refinement, clarity, and delicacy for a wine of 14% alcohol from a vintage of rampant ripeness. Wood smoke and white pepper tinge a succulent fruit reservoir of lemon, grapefruit, and apricot and the palate-staining finish positively shimmers with its interplay of ripe fruit with smoke, citrus zest, and ineffable mineral dust. This should be worth following for a decade.The most exciting collection I have thus far tasted at this address – like a number of those in the Wachau – departs from the script that was written very early, touting 2006 as a “Gruner Veltliner vintage.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300