The 1998 Pinot Noir is soft with little complexity aromatically. It is pleasant, with good cherry fruit, medium body, and an easy-going finish. Readers should note that discount stores will probably have this offering on sale for $12 or less a bottle, making it an even more attractive value. Readers looking for reasonably-priced, fruit-driven wines that are faithful to their varietal characteristics should check out Echelon. Run by Chalone, this wine is made by one of their former winemakers, Larry Brooks. Given the high cost of grapes from reliable vineyard sources, it is becoming almost impossible to make decent quality wines for less than $15. Echelon appears to have succeeded in doing so. This wine is not complex or super-concentrated, but it is user-friendly and ideal for every day drinking. Tel. ?????????