The 2007 Batard-Montrachet – from holdings that straddle the Puligny-Chassagne line – is once again challenged by placing it in a line-up after Boillot's Criots and Bienvenues, but the wine chooses to go its own very fruit-centric, generous, and in the final analysis no less vintage-typical way. Peach, musk melon, and papaya in the nose segue into a sumptuously rich, ripely-fruited palate that incorporates marzipan and honey, yet also a fresh cut of citrus. This would finish more lusciously were it not for a sheer concentration – encompassing citrus zest, peach kernel, vanilla bean, and alkaline minerality – of palate staining bitterness. It will probably retain stamina for a decade.
As explained in my report in issue 180, Henri Boillot’s domaine is now legally known by his name rather than that of his father Jean, and is thus eponymous with his negociant business. Furthermore, given what seems to be a stylistic convergence as well as given Boillot's own preference in presenting his wines this year, I have folded together the coverage of these two entities, noting in the text of my notes those wines that come from the domaine. Boillot did not begin picking until the second week in September, harvesting fruit that he reported required only occasional, minimal chaptalization and had higher tartaric than malic acid, in contrast to their proportions in 2008. Since Boillot managed to achieve his ideals of “precision and minerality” even in the ripe 2006 vintage, it will come as no surprise that they have been brilliantly achieved in 2007. A preference for volume of healthy lees rather than their stirring and (as mentioned in my report on his 2006s) the utilization of 350-liter barrels rather than barriques are surely among the factors that permit these wines to marry richness with refreshment and clarity. On the other hand, even the wines of lesser appellation that receive less barrel exposure are still given extended time on their fine lees in tank before bottling, Boillot being a believer that "time is of the essence" to great white Burgundy, not in the proverbial sense but rather in that of taking enough if it.
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