The Romanee-St.-Vivant is a powerhouse, as well as a potential monument of the vintage. Made from vines planted in 1920 and yields of less than two tons per acre, this wine exhibits everything a great young Burgundy should possess. The saturated dark ruby/purple color is followed by a nose that reluctantly offers up sweet aromas of plums, black-cherries, and licorice-covered raspberries. The wine hits the palate with great fruit extraction, superb purity, medium to full body, a long mid-palate, and an impressive 35-45 second finish. While it possesses the vintage's tell-tale high tannin level, this is a profoundly concentrated wine. As always, it is a question of balance, and this wine contains both the fruit and the structure. Do not touch a bottle for 3-4 years, then watch it magically evolve over the following two decades. Impressive!
A potential superstar may be emerging. It is no secret why this estate's wines have become superb as opposed to merely good. The domaine now practices extensive crop thinning, with average yields of under 30 hectoliters per hectare, even in abundant vintages such as 1992. These are powerful, rich wines that are bottled early to protect their intense, concentrated fruit. Confuron enjoyed stunning success in such tough years as 1991 and 1992, as well as in 1993. The old days of musty, vegetal, over-cropped wines are surely a thing of the past. The daughter of the late Jean-Jacques Confuron, Sophie Meunier, and her husband, Alain, deserve many a kudo for this domaine's remarkable renaissance.
For three consecutive years this estate has bottled its wines without fining or filtration. Additionally, the wines are only racked before bottling, so there is 15-18 months of extended lees contact. The grand crus are aged in 100% new French oak, and the premier crus in 80%. One of Burgundy's finest estates, the Meuniers are doing everything to ensure the highest quality wines emerge. Their 1993s are certainly among the superstars of the vintage.
Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083
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