The 2011 Macon-Cruzille is picked slightly later than the Macon-Chardonnay since it occupies a higher elevation and lies behind the hills. It was fermented in one demi-muid and four barrels. It has a lifted, stony bouquet with touches of limestone and flint infusing the citrus fruit. The palate is well-balanced with subtle, clear honey notes on the entry, and touches of Clementine and apricot that are folded into a harmonious, mellow finish that caresses in the mouth. This is a sensual, fulfilling Macon.
My first port of call with Jasper Morris MW was at Domaine de la Soufrandiere, the estate in Vinzelles that was acquired by Jules Bret in 1947 when it accommodated barely one-hectare of vines. Over the ensuing years, the vineyard acreage was expanded and this has continued under his son, Jean-Paul, although the wines were sold to the local co-operative, “Cave Cooperative de Vinzelles.” It was not until the late-1990s when the reins were handed to Jean-Paul’s sons, Jean-Philippe and Jean-Guillaume, that they entertained the notion of bottling the wines themselves and therefore the maiden vintage of La Soufrandiere was only in 2000. In tandem with building up their own domaine, they established a successful negociant business named “Bret Brothers” (apparently so-called after Jean-Marie Guffens referred to them as such when introducing them). Since 2010, a third sibling, Marc-Antoine, has joined them. Walking out into the vineyard with Jean-Philippe Bret, he explained how they have been certified biodynamic (ECOCERT) and strictly control the vines of contracted growers. Theirs is a simple equation: 1 wine equals 1 Parcel equals 1 Winemaker (except the Macon-Villages). In total they produce around 40,000 bottles per annum, though this is broken down into 18 micro-cuvees between 900 and 4,000 bottles each, using indigenous yeasts and eschewing new oak during elevage. These wines have a solid following on both sides of the Atlantic and form a perfect introduction to terroir-driven Macon wines as each has its own personality.
Importer: Becky Wasserman Selections (Le Serbet).
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