Made in the modern, cult Napa style, this Cab, from a vineyard north of St. Helena, is tremendously rich, soft and oaky. It strikes you with effusive flavors of ripe black currants, chocolate, anise and cedar, but most impressive is the smooth quality of the tannins. Youthfully brash now, it should gather forces and mellow out after 2010 and beyond.——S.H.(6/1/2009)—— 92