The second level of the portfolio begins with the 2009 Riesling 44 sourced from Clare Valley. It gives up a fragrant bouquet of acacia, lemon-lime, and melon. Crisp, mouth-filling, and vibrant, this lengthy effort will evolve for 2-3 years and drink well through 2018. With veteran vigneron Chris Ringland now in charge of the winemaking, I can state unequivocally that this is the finest collection of Marquis Philips wines since the label was started in 2000. Nevertheless, these wines will be controversial because all but one of the non-Roogle wines is over 16% alcohol. The small but vocal crowd of Australia bashers will have a field day taking these wines to task as they do with the Mollydooker wines (which seem to sell out anyway). Ringland is concerned about flavor and balance which is what these wines are all about. Those seeking low alcohol, subtlety, and finesse should of course look elsewhere. Those who want a big mouthful of sensual pleasure should read on. The Roogle Series is meant to be a bargain-priced introduction to the Marquis Philips upper level wines. The Marquis Philips wines are predominantly sourced from McLaren Vale while the Roogle wines are multi-regional.Importer: Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (805) 278-9095
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